Old Tbilisi’s courtyards, with an architect
Behind the carved balconies are courtyards most visitors never see. Nika knows which gates open.
- Published
- October 22, 2026
More to do in Tbilisi.
Cook khinkali with a Sololaki family
Tamar’s kitchen has fed four generations. For one long afternoon it feeds you too: nineteen folds per dumpling, a bottle from the cellar, and a table that fills up with neighbours. You eat what you make.
Save a seat at the table
TbilisiSipsA day in Kakheti’s family cellars
Three cellars, three families, qvevri buried since before the Soviets. Lunch is under the vines. Bring an empty suitcase.
Pour me a glassBake shoti bread with a master baker
Knead the dough, slap it onto the walls of a clay tone oven, and pull out your own loaf, still hot. Cheese and wine included.
Bake your loafPolyphony night in a Sololaki cellar
Three singers, one long table and songs older than the house. Join the chorus on the last one. Supra included.
Pull up a chairThrow a pot on Leselidze Street
Two hours at the wheel with a ceramicist who fires her kiln once a week. Your cup is posted home.
Get your hands dirty