Bread from the clay oven
Five in the morning in Old Tbilisi, and the whole street already knows whether the shoti came out right.
- Published
- October 22, 2026
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All storiesMore from Tbilisi.
Inside the courtyards
Behind every iron gate in old Tbilisi there is a shared world — a fig tree, a dripping tap, laundry strung between two centuries. We spent a season in four of them.
A chef and his grandmother’s kitchen
Cooking with the window open.
What the Dry Bridge keeps
Old silver, Soviet buttons and the dealers who dress the city’s stylists.